Energy Efficiency Upgrades For Older Homes: Renovation Guide

Key Summary

Older homes often leak energy through poor insulation, air leaks, inefficient HVAC systems, and outdated windows and doors. The most cost-effective strategy is to start with an energy audit, fix air sealing and insulation first, then move to right-sized HVAC, high-performance windows and doors, modern ventilation, and finally renewable energy. Planning upgrades around your renovation timeline lets you bundle work, reduce disruption, and unlock significant long-term savings and comfort gains.

TL;DR

• Begin with an energy audit so you know exactly where your older home is wasting energy before spending on major upgrades.
• Tackle low-cost, high-impact measures first: air sealing, attic and basement insulation, and smart controls for heating and cooling.
• When renovating, pair envelope work (insulation, air sealing, windows, doors) with HVAC upgrades to right-size equipment and avoid overspending.
• Ensure healthy indoor air with balanced ventilation (like ERVs) as you tighten the home, especially for older houses with moisture or air quality issues.
• Consider renewable energy options such as rooftop solar once your home’s energy demand is reduced, to maximize payback and resilience.
• Prioritize projects in three waves: urgent safety and moisture fixes, quick-return efficiency upgrades, then longer-term deep energy retrofits.

Product Introduction

As you plan efficiency upgrades during your renovation, it helps to have vetted products that align with modern building science. Rise’s product collections focus on energy-efficient insulation materials, high-performance windows and doors, smart thermostats, ERVs, and efficient heating and cooling systems designed for residential and light-commercial projects. Below your contractor’s scope of work, you can plug in specific Rise-recommended products to improve comfort, cut utility bills, and make your older home perform like a new high-efficiency build.

Why older homes are often energy inefficient

Many older homes were built before modern energy codes existed, so they tend to leak heat in winter and cool air in summer. Even if the structure is solid, the building envelope and mechanical systems often perform far below today’s standards. Understanding where the inefficiencies come from helps you target the right upgrades and avoid cosmetic fixes that don’t solve the underlying problems.

• Little or no insulation in attics, walls, crawlspaces, and basements, especially in homes built before the 1980s.
• Single-pane or early double-pane windows with leaky frames and poorly weather-stripped doors that allow drafts and heat loss.
• Oversized or outdated furnaces, boilers, and air conditioners that short-cycle, waste energy, and fail to deliver even comfort.
• Leaky ductwork that dumps conditioned air into attics, crawlspaces, and wall cavities instead of rooms where you live.
• Uncontrolled air leakage through gaps around plumbing, chimneys, recessed lights, electrical penetrations, and foundation cracks.
• Poor or missing mechanical ventilation, leading to condensation, mold, or stuffy air—problems that can become worse after tightening the house.

Common symptoms in older, inefficient homes

You don’t have to be an energy expert to suspect that your older home is inefficient. Everyday comfort issues often point directly to building science problems hiding in the walls, attic, and basement. Paying attention to these symptoms can guide your first round of upgrades before you ever open a wall.

• Rooms that are too hot in summer and too cold in winter, often on upper floors or over garages and crawlspaces.
• Drafts you can feel near windows, doors, electrical outlets on exterior walls, and around baseboards.
• Long furnace or AC run times yet persistent discomfort, or equipment that cycles on and off rapidly.
• Condensation or frost on windows in winter, or musty odors in basements, attics, and closets.
• Unusually high heating or cooling bills compared to similar homes in your area, even after adjusting for size.

Step one: Get an energy audit for your older home

Before you commit tens of thousands of dollars to windows or HVAC, invest in a home energy audit. This is the most cost-effective way to map where your home is losing energy and to create a prioritized upgrade plan that fits your renovation schedule. An audit for a typical older house usually costs far less than one month of winter heating or summer cooling bills and often pays for itself quickly through smarter choices.

• A home energy audit uses tools like a blower door, infrared camera, and duct testing to reveal hidden air leaks, missing insulation, and equipment issues.
• Auditors often provide a written report with recommended upgrades, cost ranges, estimated energy savings, and simple payback times.
• Many utilities and local programs offer rebates or discounted audits, especially for older homes and first-time buyers.

What a home energy audit typically includes

A good auditor is part detective, part educator. They don’t just hand you a generic checklist—they show you, in real time, where your home is leaking energy and how to fix it. When scheduling, ask for a comprehensive audit that includes both envelope and mechanical systems, not merely a visual walkthrough.

• Blower door test to depressurize the home and reveal air leakage through gaps and cracks you cannot see.
• Infrared imaging of walls, ceilings, and around windows and doors to show missing or settled insulation and thermal bridges.
• Inspection of attic, crawlspace, and basement for insulation quality, air sealing, moisture issues, and ventilation pathways.
• Review of HVAC equipment age, efficiency ratings, distribution systems (ducts or pipes), and control strategies like thermostats and zoning.
• Basic safety checks for combustion appliances, including draft, carbon monoxide risks, and back-drafting, especially in older houses with chimneys.

Ask the auditor to help you prioritize improvements in stages—for example, what to tackle before you move in, what to bundle with kitchen or bath renovations, and what to plan for in three to five years. This ensures your energy roadmap matches your budget and lifestyle.

How to prioritize efficiency upgrades in an older home

Tackling everything at once can be overwhelming. Instead of trying to overhaul your entire home in one project, think in phases based on urgency, payback, and renovation opportunities. This structure helps you make steady progress while staying within your budget and renovation schedule.

Phase 1: Safety, moisture, and quick wins

In any older home, start by addressing issues that affect health, safety, and structural durability. These often overlap with energy efficiency and can improve comfort immediately. Focus here before spending on aesthetic upgrades like new countertops or flooring.

• Fix bulk water problems: roof leaks, foundation seepage, poorly drained gutters, and grading that slopes toward the house.
• Address serious air quality or combustion safety issues such as gas leaks, back-drafting water heaters, or unvented heaters.
• Seal obvious large air leaks around chimneys, attic hatches, and big gaps in the basement or crawlspace using safe, code-approved materials.
• Install or test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors, especially after changes to HVAC or ventilation systems.

At the same time, knock out a few "quick win" efficiency measures: LED lighting, low-flow fixtures, basic weatherstripping on doors, and programmable or smart thermostats. These typically have low upfront costs and nearly immediate payback.

Phase 2: Envelope first—insulation and air sealing

Building science experts often repeat the mantra: "Seal it tight, then insulate right." In older homes, improving the building envelope usually provides the best return on investment because it reduces energy demand for every future winter and summer. Upgrading the envelope before replacing HVAC ensures you can install smaller, more efficient equipment later.

• Prioritize air sealing and insulation in the attic, then the basement or crawlspace, and only then consider walls if the budget allows.
• Combine air sealing with insulation so you are not trapping moisture or leaving pathways for uncontrolled air movement.
• Plan envelope work before major interior finishes so you do not pay twice to open and repair the same areas.

Phase 3: HVAC, windows, doors, and ventilation

Once your envelope is reasonably tight and well insulated, you can turn to heating, cooling, windows, doors, and ventilation. In many older homes, simply swapping in a new furnace without addressing envelope issues locks you into oversized equipment and higher bills for decades. By sequencing correctly, you can downsize HVAC and invest instead in higher-quality components and controls.

• Replace HVAC after major envelope upgrades so your contractor can perform accurate load calculations and right-size new systems.
• Plan window and exterior door replacements strategically—prioritize worst-performing units or those linked to moisture or safety problems.
• Add mechanical ventilation (such as an ERV) when the home becomes tighter, to maintain healthy indoor air and manage humidity.

Phase 4: Renewable energy and deep retrofits

After you have reduced your home’s energy demand with envelope and HVAC upgrades, renewable energy becomes more cost-effective. Rooftop solar, solar-ready electrical work, battery storage, and deeper envelope retrofits can push your older home toward very low energy use and high resilience, even during grid disruptions.

• Size solar or other renewable systems after major efficiency work so you are not paying to offset wasted energy.
• Consider deep retrofit projects—such as exterior insulation, re-siding with continuous insulation, or full duct system redesign—when you already plan major exterior or interior renovations.
• For light-commercial or mixed-use buildings, coordinate renewable energy with demand management tools like smart thermostats and advanced controls.

Insulation upgrades for older homes: where and how to start

In most older homes, insulation is inconsistent at best and completely missing at worst. Insulation slows heat flow, helping keep warm air inside in winter and outside in summer. When you are renovating, upgrading insulation is one of the highest-impact moves you can make for comfort and energy savings.

Attic insulation: the top priority

Because heat rises, your attic is usually the most important place to improve insulation first. Many older homes have only a thin layer of insulation, or have gaps created by past renovations and wiring changes. Upgrading attic insulation is often relatively easy and accessible, making it a natural starting point before you address more complex areas like walls.

• Typical cost range: approximately $1,500 to $4,000 for adding blown-in cellulose or fiberglass in an average-size attic, depending on region and access.
• Expected benefits: noticeable comfort improvements in upper floors, reduced ice dams, and heating and cooling savings often between 10% and 20% when combined with air sealing.
• Key considerations: ensure proper air sealing before adding more insulation, maintain clearances around recessed lights and chimneys, and preserve ventilation paths from soffits to ridge vents.

Basement and crawlspace insulation

Basements and crawlspaces in older homes are common sources of cold floors, drafts, and moisture problems. Insulating and air sealing these lower areas not only reduces heat loss but also cuts down on musty odors, pests, and uncomfortable temperature swings. This is especially important if you plan finished living space below grade or have mechanical equipment in these areas.

• Typical cost range: about $2,000 to $8,000, depending on whether you insulate just the rim joists or the entire foundation walls and whether moisture remediation is needed.
• Expected benefits: warmer floors, fewer drafts, improved indoor air quality, and reduced risk of condensation and mold on cool surfaces.
• Key considerations: address bulk water first (drainage, sump pumps, vapor barriers) before adding insulation, and choose insulation types suitable for contact with masonry and moisture.

Wall insulation in older homes

Adding wall insulation to existing homes can be more complex and expensive, but also very rewarding. Many older houses built before modern codes have uninsulated wall cavities, especially if they have wood framing and exterior cladding like clapboard or brick veneer. You can improve walls from the exterior, the interior, or both, depending on your renovation plans.

• Blown-in insulation: installers drill small holes in siding or interior walls and fill cavities with dense-pack cellulose or fiberglass; this can be effective but must be done carefully to avoid moisture trapping.
• Exterior insulation: when re-siding, you can add rigid or semi-rigid insulation to the outside of the sheathing, greatly improving performance and reducing thermal bridging.
• Interior improvements: during major gut renovations, you can upgrade cavity insulation, address air barriers, and ensure proper vapor control according to your climate zone.

Because wall insulation choices affect moisture behavior and durability, it is wise to consult with a building professional or energy consultant who understands older building assemblies in your climate. Rise’s insulation product guides can help you compare eco-friendly and high-performance materials that fit your project scope.

Air sealing: stopping drafts and hidden energy leaks

Air sealing is about controlling where air enters and exits your home. In older houses, gaps and cracks around the building envelope act like invisible open windows. Sealing these leaks is one of the most cost-effective upgrades you can make, and it complements every other efficiency improvement from insulation to HVAC.

Key areas to air seal in an older home

Your energy audit will identify specific leakage sites, but most older homes share similar trouble spots. Many of these can be addressed with caulk, foam, gaskets, and weatherstripping, even on a modest budget. Others may require contractors, particularly near chimneys or structural areas.

• Attic hatch and pull-down stairs, which often lack gaskets and insulation, allowing warm air to escape into the attic.
• Recessed lights and ceiling penetrations that act as chimneys for conditioned air to move into unconditioned spaces.
• Rim joists and sill plates at the top of foundation walls, where gaps between framing and masonry allow outdoor air inside.
• Plumbing and electrical penetrations through floors, walls, and ceilings where holes are often much larger than the pipes or wires.
• Window and door frames, especially in older wood or metal assemblies that have shifted or deteriorated over time.

Air sealing costs, benefits, and DIY potential

Air sealing can often be done in stages by homeowners willing to do some careful work, or as part of a professional retrofit bundled with insulation. Either way, it is a low-cost strategy with high returns, and it quickly improves comfort in drafty older houses.

• Typical cost range: from under $200 for DIY caulk, foam, and weatherstripping to $1,000–$3,000 or more for professional whole-house air sealing combined with blower-door testing.
• Expected benefits: lower heating and cooling bills, more even temperatures, fewer drafts, and reduced dust and pollen infiltration.
• Key considerations: balance air sealing with mechanical ventilation; as your home gets tighter, you will want controlled, filtered fresh air rather than relying on random leaks.

Rise’s curated weatherization products, such as high-quality door sweeps, gaskets, and air sealing kits, can help you target the most common leaks in older homes while maintaining healthy indoor air quality.

HVAC upgrades: choosing efficient systems for older homes

Heating and cooling often represent the largest share of energy use in older homes. Many older furnaces, boilers, and air conditioners are oversized, inefficient, or near the end of their service life. Renovations present a perfect opportunity to replace them with modern, right-sized systems that pair well with improved insulation and air sealing.

Right-sizing HVAC for an older house

Right-sizing means matching the heating and cooling capacity of your system to the actual energy needs of your home. Oversized systems short-cycle, waste energy, and may fail to dehumidify properly. Undersized systems run constantly and can leave you uncomfortable. Accurate load calculations are essential, especially after you improve the envelope.

• Insist on a Manual J or similar load calculation, not just a rule-of-thumb estimate based on square footage alone.
• Provide your contractor with details of completed or planned insulation and air sealing work so they do not oversize equipment.
• Consider zoning and smart controls to handle different comfort needs in multi-story older homes with varied exposures.

Heat pumps and high-efficiency options

Modern heat pumps—both air-source and ground-source—are leading options for efficient heating and cooling in many climates, including colder regions. For older homes, ducted or ductless mini-split heat pumps can be retrofitted with minimal disruption, especially during broader renovations when electrical upgrades and drywall work are already planned.

• Air-source heat pumps: provide both heating and cooling, often with high efficiencies, and can serve as the primary system or work alongside existing equipment.
• Ductless mini-splits: ideal for older homes without ductwork or for additions and problem rooms that are difficult to heat and cool evenly.
• High-efficiency furnaces and boilers: condensing units with sealed combustion can significantly improve efficiency when heat pumps are not feasible or when existing hydronic systems are in good condition.
• Approximate cost range: $4,000–$12,000 for a typical high-efficiency furnace or central air replacement; $6,000–$20,000 for multi-head ductless or whole-home heat pump systems, depending on size and complexity.

Pairing new HVAC equipment with smart thermostats from Rise’s product list can further optimize scheduling, zoning, and remote control, making it easier to save energy without sacrificing comfort.

Ductwork: sealing, insulating, or redesigning

Older duct systems often leak, are poorly insulated, or were extended haphazardly during previous renovations. As part of your efficiency upgrade, check whether your ductwork needs sealing, insulation, or redesign to deliver conditioned air effectively and quietly to every room.

• Seal ducts with mastic, not just tape, especially in attics, crawlspaces, and basements; focus on joints, seams, and connections to registers.
• Insulate ducts in unconditioned spaces to reduce heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer.
• During major renovations, consider redesigning runs and adding returns so airflow is balanced and rooms are more evenly conditioned.

Windows and doors: repair vs replacement in older homes

Windows and doors are visible and highly noticeable, so many homeowners look to replace them first. While new high-performance units can offer real benefits, full replacement is not always the best first investment in an older home. Sometimes air sealing, storms, or targeted replacements provide similar gains at lower cost, especially when paired with other envelope improvements.

When to repair or enhance existing windows

Historic or high-quality wood windows can often be repaired and upgraded to perform surprisingly well. If the frames are sound, you may be able to enhance performance without full replacement. This can preserve character while still improving comfort and efficiency.

• Weatherstripping and caulking can significantly reduce drafts around sashes and frames in older windows and doors.
• Exterior or interior storm windows add an extra layer of glass and air, improving insulation and reducing air leakage at lower cost.
• Window treatments, such as insulating shades or curtains, help reduce heat loss at night and solar gain during peak summer sun.

When full window and door replacement makes sense

Full replacement is often warranted when windows or doors are structurally compromised, extremely leaky, or pose safety concerns. It may also be appropriate when you are re-siding, altering openings, or seeking major comfort improvements in specific rooms. In these cases, choose high-quality, energy-efficient products that are appropriate for your climate and orientation.

• Look for ENERGY STAR or similar performance labels that reflect U-factor (insulation performance) and Solar Heat Gain Coefficient for your region.
• For cold climates, prioritize low U-factor windows; in hot climates, focus on appropriate solar control and shading strategies.
• Typical cost range: around $600–$1,500 per installed replacement window and $1,000–$3,000 or more for high-performance exterior doors, with wide variation by material and design.

Rise’s window and door guides highlight options with high performance, durable materials, and thoughtful design details that suit both modern and traditional older homes.

Ventilation and indoor air quality in tighter older homes

As you improve insulation and air sealing, your older home will become less leaky—which is excellent for energy efficiency but can create new challenges for indoor air quality if you do not plan for ventilation. A balanced approach to fresh air helps control humidity, remove pollutants, and keep your family comfortable and healthy year-round.

Why older homes still need modern ventilation

Many people assume older homes “breathe” enough on their own through gaps and cracks. Once you tighten the building envelope, however, that uncontrolled air exchange often disappears. Mechanical ventilation lets you deliver the right amount of fresh air to the right places, without undoing your energy savings.

• Kitchens and bathrooms need exhaust ventilation to remove moisture and pollutants from cooking and showers.
• Basements and crawlspaces may need improved ventilation or dehumidification to manage moisture and musty odors.
• Bedrooms and living spaces benefit from filtered fresh air, especially in homes with pets, allergies, or nearby pollution sources.

ERVs and HRVs for older homes

Energy Recovery Ventilators (ERVs) and Heat Recovery Ventilators (HRVs) are mechanical systems that bring in fresh air while transferring heat and, in the case of ERVs, some moisture between incoming and outgoing airstreams. This allows you to maintain comfort while ventilating efficiently, which is especially useful in colder climates or in tightly sealed older homes after major renovations.

• ERVs are ideal in climates with both heating and cooling seasons, helping manage humidity as well as temperature.
• HRVs excel in colder and drier climates where recovering heat is more important than managing moisture transfer.
• Typical cost range: roughly $2,000–$6,000 installed, depending on ducting complexity and whether you are integrating with existing HVAC.

Rise highlights ERVs and HRVs that are well-suited to retrofit situations, with compact units, flexible ducting options, and efficient motors that integrate smoothly into older homes without major structural changes.

Renewable energy options for older homes under renovation

Once your older home’s energy demand is reduced, renewable energy becomes a powerful tool for cutting utility bills and carbon emissions. Renovation is the ideal moment to prepare your home for renewables, even if you are not installing them immediately. Proper electrical planning, roof assessment, and equipment choices today prevent costly rework tomorrow.

Rooftop solar on older homes

Solar photovoltaic (PV) systems are often the first renewable energy option homeowners consider. Older homes can be excellent solar candidates, especially if the roof has good sun exposure and structural integrity. Pairing solar with efficient appliances, lighting, and HVAC multiplies the impact.

• Assess roof condition: it is usually best to install solar after roof replacement or reinforcement, so panels are not removed prematurely for roofing work.
• Evaluate shading and orientation: south- and west-facing roofs with minimal shading tend to perform best, but east-facing arrays can also work well in many locations.
• Typical cost range: about $12,000–$30,000 before incentives for a residential system, depending on size, equipment, and region; federal and state incentives can significantly reduce net cost.

Solar-ready and electrification planning

Even if solar is a future project, you can make your older home “solar-ready” during renovation. This includes electrical panel upgrades, conduit runs, and layout decisions that simplify future installations. Combining these preparations with electrification—for example, switching from gas appliances to efficient electric heat pumps, induction ranges, and heat pump water heaters—positions your home to run more cleanly and efficiently over time.

• Upgrade electrical panels and wiring to handle future loads from heat pumps, EV chargers, and solar inverters or batteries.
• Consider heat pump water heaters, which provide efficient water heating and can offer some dehumidification in basements and utility rooms.
• Coordinate appliance choices with your long-term electrification plan—select efficient models that fit your panel capacity and wiring.

Rise’s renewable energy product categories showcase panels, inverters, mounting systems, and storage solutions that pair well with efficient, electrified homes and help reduce reliance on fossil fuels.

Budgeting for energy efficiency in an older home renovation

Energy efficiency upgrades can significantly affect your renovation budget, but they also can reduce monthly operating costs for decades. Viewing your project through both upfront and lifetime cost lenses helps you choose the right mix of quick-payback measures and long-term investments. Integrating efficiency work with other renovation tasks also lowers labor and disruption costs.

Typical cost ranges for key upgrades

Every home and market is different, but ballpark figures can help you start planning. Actual pricing will depend on local labor, materials, access, and the scope of your renovation. Use these ranges to shape your questions when interviewing contractors and to allocate line items in your renovation budget.

• Energy audit: roughly $200–$800, sometimes subsidized or partially rebated by utilities or local programs.
• Air sealing and basic weatherization: about $200–$3,000 depending on DIY vs professional and the scope of work.
• Attic insulation: around $1,500–$4,000 for blown-in or batt upgrades in a typical-size home.
• Basement or crawlspace insulation and sealing: approximately $2,000–$8,000 based on area and moisture remediation needs.
• High-efficiency furnace, boiler, or central AC: typically $4,000–$12,000 installed, depending on capacity and complexity.
• Whole-home or multi-split heat pump systems: often $6,000–$20,000 depending on size, number of zones, and ductwork.
• Window and door upgrades: roughly $600–$1,500 per installed window and $1,000–$3,000 or more per exterior door.
• ERV or HRV ventilation systems: about $2,000–$6,000, influenced by ducting needs and layout constraints.
• Rooftop solar systems: approximately $12,000–$30,000 before incentives for a typical residential array.

How to phase upgrades by budget

If your renovation budget is constrained, prioritize upgrades with the best combination of impact and affordability. You can think in three budget tiers and align them with your renovation schedule. This allows you to address the most critical issues first while planning for deeper improvements over time.

• Low-budget focus: energy audit, DIY air sealing, attic hatch improvements, LED lighting, basic weatherstripping, smart thermostats, and minor duct sealing you can access easily.
• Medium-budget focus: professional air sealing, attic insulation, targeted basement or crawlspace upgrades, strategic window enhancements or replacements, and single-zone mini-splits for problem rooms.
• Higher-budget focus: comprehensive envelope upgrades, whole-home HVAC replacement with heat pumps or high-efficiency systems, ERVs, large-scale window and door replacements, and rooftop solar installations.

Rise’s product filters let you sort equipment, fixtures, and materials by price tier, efficiency, and sustainability, making it simpler to build a phased plan that fits both your budget and performance goals.

Coordinating efficiency upgrades with renovation timelines

Renovation is disruptive, so it makes sense to group related energy efficiency tasks to minimize repeat mess and labor. Planning early with your design and construction team ensures your home is opened up only once where possible and that long-term efficiency goals inform key decisions like layout, mechanical room locations, and electrical planning.

Pre-renovation planning and design

Before demolition begins, gather your inspection reports, energy audit findings, and your wish list for comfort and sustainability. Use these materials to guide design decisions so efficiency upgrades are baked into the renovation scope rather than added as costly changes later.

• Share energy audit findings with your architect, designer, and contractor so they understand existing weaknesses and opportunities.
• Decide on your target performance level—basic improvements, code-plus, or near high-performance building standards—and budget accordingly.
• Select key systems and materials early, such as insulation types, ventilation strategies, and HVAC equipment, to avoid last-minute compromises.

During renovation: sequencing work wisely

During active construction, it is far easier to access structural elements, wiring, plumbing, and mechanical systems. Taking advantage of this access window allows you to execute envelope and mechanical upgrades more efficiently and with better quality, especially in older homes that may hide surprises behind walls and ceilings.

• Complete major structural and moisture repairs first to create a stable base for insulation and air sealing work.
• Perform comprehensive air sealing and insulation after rough mechanical and electrical work but before finishes go in.
• Install HVAC, ductwork, ventilation, and controls after envelope work is well defined, so systems can be properly sized and balanced.
• Schedule window and door replacements strategically to maintain security and weather protection during the project.

Post-renovation commissioning and fine-tuning

Once your renovation is complete, take time to fine-tune systems and establish new operating habits. Proper setup and commissioning can make the difference between average performance and the full potential of your upgraded home.

• Verify that HVAC systems have been commissioned, including refrigerant charge checks, airflow measurements, and thermostat programming.
• Confirm ERVs or HRVs are balanced, duct connections are secure, and filters are accessible and labeled for regular replacement.
• Set schedules and temperature setpoints on smart thermostats and controls that reflect your lifestyle while saving energy.

Many of the smart controls, sensors, and monitoring solutions featured in Rise’s catalogs can help you track energy use, identify issues early, and keep your renovated older home running efficiently over the long term.

Putting it all together: an example upgrade roadmap

To see how these pieces can fit together, consider a typical older two-story home undergoing renovation. The owners want better comfort, lower bills, and healthier air, but they must phase their investments over several years. Using the approach outlined in this guide, they create a staged roadmap that aligns with their renovation milestones and budget.

• Year 1: Conduct an energy audit; address roof and foundation leaks; install LED lighting and smart thermostats; perform DIY air sealing at obvious leaks.
• Year 2: During kitchen and bath remodels, add attic and basement insulation with professional air sealing; install quiet, efficient bath fans; upgrade a problem-room window and add storm windows elsewhere.
• Year 3–4: Replace old furnace and AC with a right-sized air-source heat pump system; seal and insulate accessible ductwork; add an ERV for balanced ventilation.
• Year 5 and beyond: Replace siding and add continuous exterior insulation; upgrade remaining windows and doors; install rooftop solar sized to the now-lower energy use of the home.

At each step, the owners choose energy-efficient products from Rise’s recommended categories, ensuring compatibility and long-term performance. The result is an older home with the charm they love and the comfort, health, and operating costs closer to those of a modern high-performance house.

Next steps: how to get started on your older home

Improving energy efficiency in an older home does not have to happen all at once. The key is to start with information, then take focused steps that build on one another. With the right plan, you will see immediate comfort gains while moving steadily toward a more resilient, lower-cost home.

• Schedule a professional energy audit and gather existing inspection and utility records for your home.
• Define your goals for comfort, health, and sustainability, and decide on a realistic budget and timeline for upgrades.
• Work with design and construction professionals who understand building science and have experience with older homes in your climate.
• Use Rise’s product guides to select insulation, HVAC, windows, doors, ventilation systems, and renewable energy options that align with your renovation scope.
• Phase your projects strategically—safety and moisture first, then insulation and air sealing, HVAC and windows, and finally renewable energy and deep retrofits.

By following this roadmap, your older house can become a comfortable, efficient, and healthy home that supports your family and the planet for decades to come. Energy efficiency upgrades are not just an expense; they are long-term investments in resilience, livability, and everyday quality of life.

Sources

• U.S. Department of Energy — Home energy audits and recommended residential upgrades energy.gov
• U.S. Environmental Protection Agency — ENERGY STAR guidance on air sealing, insulation, and HVAC selection energystar.gov
• Natural Resources Canada — Energy efficiency in existing houses, retrofit strategies, and costing nrcan.gc.ca
• Building America Solution Center — Best practices for residential building envelopes, ventilation, and mechanical systems basc.pnnl.gov
• Residential Energy Services Network (RESNET) — Home energy rating and audit process for existing homes resnet.us
• Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory — Research on home air leakage, weatherization benefits, and indoor air quality lbnl.gov