Whole-Home ERV and HRV Installation & Cost Guide

Key Summary

Whole‑home ducted ERV and HRV systems provide continuous fresh air, filter outdoor pollutants, and recover energy that would otherwise be lost through exhaust fans or window ventilation. Installation costs vary widely based on whether you are working in new construction or a retrofit, the type of duct layout, the size and layout of your home, and local labor rates, but most homeowners can expect a total installed cost somewhere between a mid‑range appliance and a small HVAC system replacement.

This guide walks through common design options, ducting and electrical requirements, and realistic cost ranges so you can decide when a DIY‑assisted approach is appropriate and when professional design and installation are essential for performance, comfort, and code compliance.

TL;DR

• Whole‑home ERVs and HRVs improve indoor air quality by bringing in filtered outdoor air while transferring heat (and, for ERVs, some moisture) between incoming and outgoing air streams.
• Typical fully installed costs for a ducted system range from roughly $2,500–$6,000+ USD in existing homes and $1,800–$4,500+ in new construction, depending on system size, ducting complexity, and local labor.
• Installation is simplest in new construction, ranch‑style layouts, and homes with accessible basements, utility rooms, or attics; retrofits in tight, finished spaces are more complex and expensive.
• Ducting needs include dedicated fresh air supply and stale air exhaust runs, exterior wall or roof terminations, and proper insulation and sealing to prevent condensation, noise, and energy loss.
• Most units require a standard 120 V electrical circuit, low‑voltage control wiring, and safe condensate drainage; cold climates or large homes may require more advanced freeze protection and balancing.
• Professional design and commissioning are highly recommended whenever you have a tight building envelope, extreme climates, integration with existing HVAC ductwork, or local code and energy‑program requirements.

ERV vs HRV: What’s the Difference for Whole‑Home Systems?

Understanding the basic difference between an ERV and an HRV is the first step before you think about installation or cost. Both systems are mechanical ventilation devices that exchange stale indoor air with fresh outdoor air through a heat‑exchange core, but they handle moisture differently and are typically recommended for different climates and household needs.

• An HRV (heat recovery ventilator) transfers heat between outgoing and incoming air, reducing heating or cooling losses but does not intentionally transfer moisture.
• An ERV (energy recovery ventilator) transfers both heat and a portion of the moisture between air streams, helping stabilize indoor humidity in many climates.

In cold, dry winter climates, HRVs are often used to expel excess indoor humidity and recover heat from the warm exhaust air. In mixed or humid climates, ERVs can help keep indoor humidity more stable by limiting how much outdoor moisture enters and how much indoor moisture is removed. For whole‑home ducted systems, many manufacturers offer the same cabinet with either an HRV or ERV core, which can simplify installation because ducting and electrical needs are nearly identical between the two.

From an installation perspective, you can think of ERVs and HRVs as functionally similar: both need outdoor intake and exhaust connections, interior supply and return ducting, power, controls, and condensate handling. The main differences that affect installation details tend to be climate‑specific considerations such as freeze protection for HRVs in very cold regions or condensate management for ERVs in humid climates.

Typical Whole‑Home ERV/HRV Installation Scenarios

Whole‑home ducted ERVs and HRVs can be installed in several ways depending on your home’s layout, existing HVAC system, and whether you are in new construction or working in an existing home. Choosing the right scenario has a major impact on total cost, complexity, and performance.

Scenario 1: Dedicated Ventilation Ductwork (Fully Ducted System)

A fully ducted system uses its own small‑diameter duct network for both stale‑air pickups and fresh‑air supply. This design is considered the most controlled and predictable because it separates ventilation from heating and cooling airflow.

• Stale air is typically pulled from bathrooms, laundry rooms, and sometimes kitchens (but not as a substitute for a range hood).
• Fresh air is typically supplied to bedrooms, living rooms, and main occupied spaces.
• Outdoor intake and exhaust are run separately, with terminations spaced to avoid cross‑contamination.

In new construction, this approach often yields the best indoor air quality and balancing, but it requires more ductwork materials and labor. In a retrofit, it can be challenging in homes without accessible attics or basements, as ducts must be threaded through existing framing or boxed in with soffits.

Scenario 2: Partially Ducted to Rooms, Shared with Existing HVAC

In a partially ducted configuration, the ERV/HRV may have dedicated stale‑air pickups but use the existing forced‑air duct system for fresh‑air distribution, or vice versa. This can work well when you already have a central furnace or air handler with reasonably well‑designed ductwork.

• One common approach: dedicated exhaust grilles near moisture sources, with fresh air ducted into the furnace return plenum so it mixes before entering the supply ducts.
• Another approach: a single supply duct from the ERV/HRV into a central hallway or open living space, relying on pressure differences and door undercuts for distribution.

Partially ducted systems are generally more cost‑effective than fully ducted designs in retrofits because they reduce the amount of new ductwork required. However, they demand careful design to avoid over‑pressurizing or under‑pressurizing the home and to ensure even distribution of fresh air to all occupied rooms.

Scenario 3: Fully Integrated with HVAC Ductwork (Simplified Ducting)

A fully integrated system ties both the fresh air supply and stale air exhaust into the existing HVAC ductwork. For example, the ERV/HRV might pull stale air from the furnace return and inject fresh air into the same or a nearby duct location.

• This can be the lowest‑material‑cost option, especially in homes with a single, well‑located central air handler and good duct access.
• It relies heavily on the main HVAC blower to distribute fresh air, which may require specific blower control strategies or timers.

While appealing for its simplicity, full integration should be carefully designed and commissioned. Incorrect connections can short‑circuit airflow, reduce efficiency, or even pull combustion gases from atmospherically vented appliances if pressure imbalances are created. In many regions, building codes and best‑practice guidelines for this configuration are becoming more specific, making professional involvement more important.

Scenario 4: Multi‑Family or Light‑Commercial Common Areas

In small multi‑family buildings or light‑commercial spaces—such as small offices, clinics, or studios—ERVs and HRVs are often used to ventilate shared corridors, lobbies, or single large zones. These systems may be ducted similarly to residential systems but typically require higher total airflow and may need more complex control strategies.

• Ventilation may be delivered to a common corridor with transfer grilles into suites or offices.
• Larger systems may use multiple units in parallel or rooftop units with vertical duct chases.

Although this guide focuses on homeowners and small building owners, it is worth noting that installation complexity and code requirements often increase in multi‑family and commercial applications. Professional design and permitting are almost always required in these cases.

Ducting Requirements for Whole‑Home ERVs and HRVs

Proper duct design is one of the most important aspects of a successful ERV or HRV installation. Poorly routed, undersized, or leaky ducts can create noise, reduce airflow, and undermine the energy‑recovery benefits you are paying for. When evaluating product options and installation quotes, pay attention not only to the unit itself but to how air will be moved through your home.

Fresh Air Supply Ducting

Fresh air supply ducts deliver tempered outdoor air from the ERV/HRV to your living spaces. In a dedicated system, these are usually smaller ducts than main heating ducts but must still be properly sized and laid out to meet the designed airflow (measured in CFM—cubic feet per minute).

• Supply registers are typically placed in bedrooms, living rooms, and other regularly occupied spaces to promote good mixing of fresh air with room air.
• Short, direct duct runs with gentle bends (using long‑radius elbows) help minimize static pressure and fan energy use.
• In cold climates, ducts in unconditioned spaces such as attics or garages should be well insulated and air sealed to prevent condensation and heat loss.

If fresh air is injected into the existing HVAC ductwork instead of dedicated supplies, a balancing strategy is critical to avoid over‑ventilating one area while under‑ventilating another. Some systems use motorized dampers, pressure sensors, or variable‑speed fans to adjust airflow according to demand or schedule.

Stale Air Exhaust Ducting

Stale air exhaust ducts carry indoor air that contains odors, moisture, and pollutants back to the ERV/HRV for energy recovery and discharge outdoors. Optimal pickup locations vary by home but generally prioritize rooms where pollutants or humidity are highest.

• Bathrooms, laundry rooms, and sometimes walk‑in closets are common exhaust locations, replacing or supplementing traditional bath fans.
• Kitchens may be exhausted via a grille located away from the cooking surface; this is not a substitute for a code‑compliant range hood but can help manage background humidity and odors.
• Mechanical rooms or central hallways may be used as additional stale‑air pickup points in some designs.

As with supply ducts, exhaust ducts should be kept as direct and smooth as possible. Each grille typically has a balancing damper, allowing the installer to fine‑tune airflow from each room during commissioning so the total exhaust matches the system’s design CFM and matches the supply side for balanced pressure.

Outdoor Intake and Exhaust Vent Terminations

Your ERV or HRV needs two separate outdoor terminations: one for fresh air intake and one for stale air exhaust. Placement and detailing here are critical to avoid recirculating exhaust, drawing in pollutants, or creating ice and condensation issues on the exterior of the building.

• Intake and exhaust should be separated by a minimum distance specified by the manufacturer and local code, often several feet or more, and should not be located near dryer vents or plumbing vents.
• Wall caps or roof hoods need to be sized correctly for the airflow and should include screens and backdraft dampers designed for low pressure drops.
• In cold climates, exterior terminations and short runs of outdoor duct should be insulated and designed to minimize frost buildup and icicles.

Many homeowners underestimate the visual and structural implications of cutting new wall or roof penetrations. If your preferred ERV or HRV location cannot easily vent outdoors, installation costs may rise due to longer duct runs or the need for additional framing and weather‑proofing work.

Duct Materials, Sizes, and Noise Considerations

Duct sizing and material choices affect not only airflow and energy use but also noise. Because ERVs and HRVs run for many hours per day, quiet operation is essential for homeowner satisfaction.

• Many installers use rigid metal duct for main runs and short lengths of insulated flex duct to connect to the unit and to registers, balancing cost with performance.
• Undersized ducts can create whistling at grilles and higher fan energy use; oversizing increases material cost but can often be justified for comfort and efficiency.
• Acoustic liners, strategic duct routing, and isolation mounts for the ERV/HRV unit itself can reduce transmitted noise and vibration into living spaces.

Ask potential installers how they size ducts (for example, whether they calculate friction rates and static pressures) and what strategies they use to keep the system quiet. A low advertised sound rating for the ERV or HRV cabinet is helpful, but duct design and installation quality often matter just as much.

Electrical Requirements for ERV and HRV Installations

Most residential‑scale ERVs and HRVs have modest electrical needs, but safe, code‑compliant wiring is still crucial. You will typically need a dedicated or shared 120 V circuit, low‑voltage control wiring to one or more wall controls, and reliable condensate drainage where applicable.

Power Supply and Circuit Sizing

Residential units in North America are commonly designed to run on 120 V, single‑phase power, although larger or higher‑end models may offer 240 V options or require higher amperage.

• Typical current draw ranges from roughly 0.5–3 amps depending on unit size and fan speed, leading many electricians to use a 15 A or 20 A circuit.
• Some local codes or best practices call for a dedicated circuit; others allow sharing with nearby low‑load equipment. Your electrician or installer should confirm what’s permissible.
• Units are usually hard‑wired, sometimes with a local disconnect switch for servicing, though some plug‑in models do exist for specific applications.

When you are comparing products, check the nameplate voltage and amperage to ensure compatibility with your electrical panel capacity. If your panel is already near its limit, you may need to budget for an electrical upgrade or creative load management, which can significantly increase project costs.

Controls, Sensors, and Low‑Voltage Wiring

Modern ERVs and HRVs often ship with or support multiple types of controls: basic wall switches, timers, dehumidistats, CO₂ sensors, and smart home integrations. All of these require low‑voltage wiring between the ERV/HRV cabinet and the control locations.

• Control wires are usually small‑gauge, multi‑conductor cables similar to thermostat wiring, routed in walls or surface‑mounted raceways depending on the finish level of your home.
• If your ERV/HRV is integrated with a furnace, heat pump, or smart thermostat, additional low‑voltage connections or relay modules may be required.
• Some systems support demand‑controlled ventilation, where sensors trigger higher ventilation rates based on humidity, occupancy, or indoor air quality metrics.

Planning control locations is an often‑overlooked part of installation. For example, a dehumidistat is usually placed in a central area away from localized moisture sources, while boost switches near bathrooms or kitchens allow you to temporarily increase airflow when needed.

Condensate Drainage and Freeze Protection

Because ERVs and HRVs move air between warm and cold environments, they often produce condensation, particularly in cold or humid climates. Many units include an internal drain pan and outlet that must be connected to a suitable drain.

• A gravity drain to a floor drain, sump basin, or condensate pump is typical; tubing must be sloped correctly and protected against freezing.
• In very cold climates, some HRVs require pre‑heaters, defrost cycles, or bypass dampers to protect the core from freezing; these may have their own electrical requirements.
• Where a condensate pump is used, it often needs its own nearby receptacle and should be accessible for regular maintenance and cleaning.

Improper condensate management can lead to leaks, mold, or water damage—issues that can quickly erase any energy savings. When reviewing installation proposals, make sure condensate routing and freeze‑protection strategies are clearly described and consistent with local climate needs.

What Affects ERV and HRV Installation Complexity?

Installation complexity—and therefore cost—is driven mainly by how hard it is to run ductwork, connect safely to the outdoors, and provide power and controls. Your home’s size, layout, construction type, and existing HVAC equipment all play a role, as do climate and local regulations.

New Construction vs Retrofit Installations

Integrating an ERV or HRV into new construction is almost always simpler and less expensive than retrofitting an existing house. In new builds, ducts can be run before drywall, equipment can be located in optimal mechanical spaces, and penetration details can be designed into the envelope from the start.

• New construction often allows for fully ducted systems with ideal grille placement and short, efficient runs.
• Retrofits may require creative routes through closets, soffits, or exterior chases to reach key rooms, increasing labor time and finish work.
• Historic or architecturally sensitive homes need especially careful planning to minimize visible changes and maintain character.

If you’re renovating or adding an addition, it often makes sense to plan ERV/HRV ducting at the same time as other mechanical upgrades. This can keep costs closer to new‑construction levels rather than full‑retrofit pricing.

Home Layout, Size, and Access to Mechanical Spaces

The more easily an installer can reach key rooms and run ducts between them, the simpler your project will be. One‑story ranches with basements or open attics tend to be the easiest; multi‑story homes with limited chases are usually more challenging.

• Basements, crawl spaces, and accessible attics provide natural pathways for duct distribution with fewer visible alterations.
• Two‑ or three‑story homes often require risers or chases; if none exist, new chases may need to be built inside closets or corners.
• Very compact or slab‑on‑grade homes may benefit from compact ductless or semi‑ducted solutions, but whole‑home coverage with a ducted ERV/HRV is still possible with creative design.

When you request quotes, be prepared to provide floor plans or at least accurate layouts with ceiling heights and access points. Installers will often want to see where they can realistically locate the unit—such as a utility room, attic platform, or garage mechanical nook—and how they can route ducts to bedrooms and main living areas.

Existing HVAC Equipment and Combustion Appliances

Your current heating and cooling setup can either simplify or complicate ERV/HRV installation. A centrally located forced‑air furnace or air handler with a robust duct system is often beneficial, especially for partial or fully integrated designs.

• Hydronic or electric baseboard‑heated homes may require entirely new ducts for ventilation, since there is no existing air handler or ductwork to tie into.
• Homes with multiple duct systems—for example, separate systems for different floors—may need one ERV/HRV per system or a carefully divided duct network.
• Combustion appliances such as older gas furnaces, water heaters, or fireplaces require special attention; ventilation systems must be designed to avoid negative pressures that could draw flue gases into the living space.

Discuss your existing equipment with prospective installers and ask how they will address combustion safety and pressure balancing. Sometimes, upgrading to sealed‑combustion appliances or modifying venting is recommended alongside ERV/HRV installation, which can increase upfront costs but improves overall safety and performance.

Climate, Codes, and Energy‑Program Requirements

Climate plays a significant role in both system selection (ERV vs HRV) and installation details. Very cold climates require more robust freeze protection and insulation, while very humid climates often place more emphasis on moisture management and condensate handling. Building codes and voluntary energy‑efficiency programs sometimes specify minimum ventilation rates, acceptable duct materials, and testing requirements.

• Cold‑climate regions may require HRVs or cold‑climate‑rated ERVs, minimum R‑values for duct insulation, and specific defrost strategies.
• Humid or mixed‑humid regions may favor ERVs to moderate indoor humidity swings and may require special attention to drainage and mold‑resistant materials.
• High‑performance or green‑building programs often require commissioning, airflow testing, and documentation of ventilation rates, which adds professional labor but ensures the system works as intended.

Before finalizing your plan, confirm whether your jurisdiction follows a particular mechanical code version or energy code and whether there are incentives tied to specific equipment efficiencies or testing requirements. A well‑versed installer or designer should be able to explain how they will meet those standards.

Typical Cost Ranges for Whole‑Home ERV and HRV Installation

Because each home is unique, there is no single “standard” cost for a ducted ERV or HRV system. However, you can think about costs in several categories: equipment, ductwork and materials, electrical and controls, labor for installation and commissioning, and any related building or finish work. The ranges below are approximate and meant to help you sense‑check bids rather than serve as fixed quotes.

Equipment Cost: ERV or HRV Unit Itself

The ERV or HRV cabinet is usually the single largest line item on the equipment side. Prices vary based on airflow capacity (CFM), energy‑recovery efficiency, fan type, controls, and brand.

• Smaller residential units for apartments, condos, or small homes may start around the lower thousands of dollars for the unit alone, depending on brand and features.
• Mid‑range units for typical detached homes often fall in a moderate four‑figure range, with higher‑efficiency cores and ECM motors at the upper end.
• Larger or more advanced units with high static pressure capabilities, integrated controls, or commercial ratings can cost more and are often used in small multi‑family or light‑commercial projects.

When you browse products on an e‑commerce site like Rise, use the manufacturer’s recommended maximum floor area and design CFM rating to match the unit to your home size and ventilation target. Oversizing slightly for future flexibility is common, but excessive oversizing can increase capital cost without clear benefits.

Ductwork, Materials, and Accessories

Beyond the main unit, you’ll need ductwork, registers, grilles, exterior terminations, balancing dampers, hangers, sealants, insulation, and condensate drainage materials. The more extensive and custom the duct network, the higher this portion of the budget.

• Material‑only costs for ducts and accessories in a simple, partially ducted retrofit might be modest compared to labor.
• Fully ducted systems in larger homes can require significantly more material, especially if rigid metal duct and high‑quality insulation are used throughout.
• Special accessories such as silencers, inline fans, bypass dampers, or pre‑heaters add to cost but may be important for comfort or climate‑specific performance.

Ask for itemized quotes that separate equipment from ducting and materials. This transparency helps you compare different installers and understand where higher or lower bids are coming from.

Labor for Installation and Commissioning

Labor usually accounts for a significant portion of total project cost, especially in retrofits. Tasks include mounting the unit, running and sealing ducts, cutting and flashing penetrations, wiring, and system balancing and testing.

• Straightforward new‑construction installs in accessible mechanical rooms typically require fewer hours, with costs falling toward the lower end of typical ranges.
• Complex retrofits with tight spaces, finished ceilings, or multiple stories can require substantially more labor and coordination, pushing costs to the upper end or beyond.
• Commissioning—measuring airflow, adjusting dampers, verifying controls, and documenting performance—adds time but is essential for ensuring the system performs as designed.

Local labor rates vary widely, so an install that is economical in one region may be significantly more expensive in another. When possible, obtain at least two or three quotes from licensed contractors with specific ERV/HRV experience.

Putting It Together: Approximate Installed Cost Ranges

Bringing equipment, materials, and labor together, many homeowners see total installed costs for a whole‑home ducted ERV or HRV fall within a broad but predictable range. Exact numbers depend on the factors described above, but these groupings can help you benchmark quotes:

• New construction, small to mid‑size home, partially integrated with existing HVAC: overall installed cost often comparable to a mid‑range appliance upgrade, depending on product and region.
• New construction, fully ducted system in a larger or high‑performance home: overall installed cost in the range of a modest HVAC upgrade, particularly when matched with tight envelope and energy‑code requirements.
• Retrofit in an existing, easy‑access home (basement or attic, one story): total costs often somewhat higher than new construction but still within an attainable range for many homeowners interested in IAQ and comfort upgrades.
• Retrofit in a complex, multi‑story, or architecturally sensitive home: costs may be significantly higher due to custom duct routing, finish repairs, and design time; in such cases, careful planning and multiple quotes are especially important.

If a quote seems unusually low, confirm what is included: Are they providing only the unit and basic connections, leaving you to handle drywall repair, painting, or electrical? Conversely, high quotes may include premium duct materials, extended warranties, or additional testing that you can discuss and compare against your priorities.

When Is Professional Design and Installation Essential?

Some homeowners with strong mechanical skills may be able to assist with or even complete parts of an ERV or HRV installation, especially in simple, accessible layouts. However, there are many situations where professional design and installation are strongly recommended—or required by code—for safety, performance, and warranty protection.

Signs You Need a Professional Designer or Engineer

A dedicated ventilation designer, mechanical engineer, or experienced HVAC contractor can help you size the system correctly, lay out duct runs, and coordinate with other trades. Consider professional design essential if any of the following apply:

• Your home is part of a high‑performance or green‑building program with specific ventilation and testing requirements.
• You have multiple floors, unusual layouts, or mixed‑use spaces (such as home offices with higher occupancy at times).
• You live in an extreme climate (very cold or very humid) where freeze protection and moisture control are critical.
• Your home has atmospheric combustion appliances, fireplaces, or other systems sensitive to pressure imbalances.
• Local codes or incentive programs require stamped drawings, mechanical ventilation calculations, or commissioning reports.

Even if design is modest, a short consultation with a knowledgeable professional can help you avoid common pitfalls, such as under‑sizing ducts, misplacing outdoor terminations, or creating noise problems near bedrooms.

When Professional Installation Is Non‑Negotiable

Proper installation is just as important as design. While homeowners may be able to assist with tasks like mounting the unit or running some ductwork, there are key aspects where licensed professionals should be involved:

• Electrical connections to the panel, including breakers, wiring, and any required disconnects, should be performed by a licensed electrician in most jurisdictions.
• Penetrations through fire‑rated assemblies or critical air and water barriers must be detailed and sealed according to code and best practice.
• System balancing and commissioning—using calibrated instruments to measure airflow and adjust dampers—is a specialized task that affects both comfort and code compliance.
• Combustion safety testing, if required, must be carried out by trained professionals to confirm that ventilation does not cause back‑drafting of gas appliances.

Many manufacturers also tie warranty coverage to professional installation, so DIY installs may limit support if issues arise. Be sure to read the fine print of any product you’re considering and budget accordingly for professional labor where required.

Where DIY or Assisted DIY Can Make Sense

For some homeowners, a hybrid approach—where you handle certain tasks while leaving the technical work to pros—can reduce costs without overly compromising quality or safety. Examples include:

• Preparing access paths and clearing storage in attics, basements, or closets to shorten install time.
• Building simple soffits or chases after ducts are installed, if you are comfortable with finish carpentry and drywall.
• Running low‑voltage control wiring in open spaces under the guidance of your installer or electrician, then leaving final connections and testing to them.

If you are considering a DIY or assisted approach, discuss this openly with potential contractors. Some are happy to let you handle portions of the work; others may prefer full control to ensure warranty and liability coverage. Clear expectations up front prevent misunderstandings later.

How to Choose the Right ERV or HRV Unit for Your Home

Selecting an ERV or HRV is more than just matching square footage. To get good performance and predictable installation costs, you’ll want to consider airflow requirements, climate, ducting layout, noise, and controls—and then choose a unit whose specifications align with those needs.

Sizing by Airflow (CFM) and Home Characteristics

Ventilation rates are usually based on home size, number of bedrooms, and expected occupancy. Mechanical codes and best‑practice guidelines often specify minimum continuous ventilation airflow in CFM. Many manufacturers provide selection tables suggesting which models match particular home sizes.

• As a general rule, you want enough airflow to exchange indoor air at a steady but not drafty rate; oversizing wildly can increase energy use and noise if not properly controlled.
• Look for units rated to deliver your design CFM against realistic static pressures once duct losses are considered.
• High‑efficiency ECM fans can maintain airflow more efficiently over a range of pressures and speeds than older PSC motors.

On an e‑commerce platform, filters for coverage area, CFM range, and climate appropriateness can help narrow your choices. You can then compare installation manuals to confirm that duct connections, mounting options, and electrical requirements match your planned installation scenario.

Choosing Between ERV and HRV Based on Climate and Lifestyle

If you live in a cold, relatively dry winter climate and often battle condensation on windows or elevated indoor humidity, an HRV is frequently recommended to help expel moisture while recovering heat. In warmer or more humid climates, or in homes with variable occupancy patterns, an ERV may provide better comfort by moderating indoor humidity swings.

• Homes with lots of internal moisture generation—large families, frequent cooking, indoor plants, or aquariums—may benefit from HRVs that effectively exhaust humid air.
• Homes where humidity is already on the low side for comfort might favor ERVs to keep some moisture indoors rather than drying out excessively.
• In shoulder seasons and mild climates, both ERVs and HRVs can provide comfortable, steady ventilation without dramatically affecting indoor humidity either way.

When in doubt, consult with a professional familiar with your climate and building type. Some manufacturers offer tools or checklists to help determine which core type is best for your situation. Remember that installation details, such as where stale air is extracted and how controls are set up, can influence humidity outcomes as much as the core technology itself.

Noise Levels, Maintenance Access, and Filter Options

Because ventilation systems run for long periods, you’ll want a unit that is quiet and easy to maintain. Manufacturer sound ratings, mounting options, and duct layout all affect how noticeable the system is in daily life.

• Look for published sound levels at typical operating speeds and confirm how the unit is intended to be mounted—to a wall, ceiling, or platform—to minimize vibration.
• Check filter options and replacement intervals; many homeowners appreciate easy‑access doors and standard filter sizes that are simple to source through sites like Rise.
• Make sure there is adequate space for future service, including core removal, fan maintenance, and inspection of condensate drains.

When planning installation, place the unit where service access is safe and realistic—such as a well‑lit mechanical room or accessible attic platform—rather than hidden corners that discourage regular maintenance. This can lengthen equipment life and sustain performance.

Planning Your Project: Steps from Idea to Installed System

To make the ERV or HRV installation process more manageable, break the project into clear steps: assessing your needs, choosing a system type and size, obtaining design and quotes, and planning for long‑term operation and maintenance. This structured approach helps keep costs transparent and outcomes predictable.

Step 1: Assess Your Home’s Ventilation Needs

Start by considering your current indoor air quality and comfort. Are there signs of inadequate ventilation, such as persistent odors, condensation, or stuffiness? Do members of your household have respiratory sensitivities or allergies that may benefit from consistent fresh air and filtration?

• Note problem areas such as bathrooms that stay damp, bedrooms that feel stuffy at night, or rooms where people spend long hours working or studying.
• Consider how airtight your home is; recent construction or envelope upgrades may have significantly reduced natural infiltration.
• Think about future changes, such as finishing a basement or adding a home office, which may increase ventilation needs over time.

Making a simple room‑by‑room list of issues or priorities will make conversations with designers and installers more productive and can guide ducting layouts and control strategies.

Step 2: Decide on System Configuration and Location

Next, think about which installation scenario is most realistic for your home—fully ducted, partially ducted, or integrated with existing HVAC—and where the main unit will be located. This step has a big impact on both cost and performance.

• Walk through the home and identify potential locations for the ERV/HRV, such as a basement mechanical room, garage, attic, or utility closet.
• Note possible paths for ducts to reach key rooms and to the outdoors for intake and exhaust, considering obstructions like beams, plumbing, or existing ducts.
• Consider access for service and noise concerns; for example, placing the unit directly over a bedroom or living room ceiling may not be ideal.

Sharing this preliminary thinking with a designer or contractor lets them refine your ideas into a practical, code‑compliant layout while staying within your budget constraints.

Step 3: Select Products and Request Detailed Quotes

With a rough configuration idea in mind, you can begin browsing ERV and HRV models online and requesting quotes. An e‑commerce platform like Rise lets you filter by CFM, climate suitability, energy performance, and price, then cross‑reference product manuals to confirm installation requirements.

• Share your shortlisted units and desired installation scenario with local contractors to get apples‑to‑apples quotes.
• Ask for line‑item breakdowns showing equipment, ductwork, electrical, controls, commissioning, and any patching or finish work.
• Inquire about warranties on both equipment and labor, and confirm who will handle any future service needs.

Detailed quotes help you identify differences in scope—such as more thorough commissioning or higher‑quality duct materials—that may justify higher prices. They also put you in a stronger position to adjust the project to match your budget without sacrificing essential quality.

Step 4: Plan for Operation, Maintenance, and Energy Use

Finally, think beyond installation to day‑to‑day operation. An ERV or HRV is a long‑term investment in your home’s health and comfort, and it works best when maintained regularly.

• Review recommended filter change intervals and budget for replacement filters; many can be ordered online and stocked ahead of time.
• Ask your installer to show you how to access the core, clean or replace filters, and check the condensate drain, and to provide any owner’s manual supplements they use.
• Discuss control strategies—such as continuous low‑speed operation with timed boosts—that balance air quality with energy use.

With a thoughtful plan and clear expectations, most homeowners find that ERVs and HRVs quietly support healthier indoor environments for many years with modest maintenance effort and energy use relative to the benefits provided.

Using an Online Store Like Rise to Support Your Project

Throughout your ERV or HRV planning process, an online platform like Rise can be a central hub for research, product selection, and coordination with professionals. Rather than relying solely on local inventory, you can access a curated range of ventilation products suited to residential and light‑commercial applications.

• Compare multiple ERV and HRV models side by side on criteria such as CFM, energy‑recovery efficiency, fan power, sound levels, and climate suitability.
• Access installation manuals, spec sheets, and cut sheets in advance so contractors can verify compatibility with your home’s electrical service and ducting plan.
• Bundle related components—such as exterior hoods, filters, silencers, and smart controls—so you know exactly what is included before installation day.

By pairing this kind of detailed product research with local professional expertise, you can move from curiosity about whole‑home ventilation to a completed, well‑performing system that matches your indoor air quality goals and budget.

Sources

• ASHRAE — Residential ventilation and IAQ guidance (Standards 62.2 and related resources) https://www.ashrae.org
• U.S. Department of Energy — Energy recovery ventilation system efficiency and application guidance https://www.energy.gov
• Natural Resources Canada — Home ventilation and HRV/ERV selection and installation best practices https://natural-resources.canada.ca
• Home Ventilating Institute — Certified product ratings for residential ERVs and HRVs https://www.hvi.org
• Building Science Corporation — Technical articles on balanced ventilation, duct design, and cold‑climate performance https://buildingscience.com